Northern Peru

Hello Peru ! Amazing how things can change by just crossing an invisible "border".  Northern Peru was hot, dusty, and chaotic. I tried to get out of there as fast as I could. For three days now I have not seen one other Caucasian person. I love that ! I love to feel out of the main tourist zone. That's one major thing I did *not* like about Thailand. Everywhere you went there was foreign travelers and it did not feel as authentic to me. It's a bit hard to get off the beaten tourist track when you are a solo female traveler.

I took one or two or three buses and hopped off at a little beach town called Pacasmayo. Since the previous night I had the worst hotel ever, I decided to treat myself to a room with an ocean view. Living large at $25 a night.  I dipped my feet in that Pacific Ocean, walked along the ocean front for a long time, and enjoyed a nice meal before I hit the road South again.

Border

I'm not sure why I did not take the easy route for the border crossing into Peru. Oh well, traveling isn't supposed to be easy. I managed to take one bus to a bigger city hub and grabbed yet another bus South to the border town of Macara in Ecuador. This was the middle option of three border towns to get into Peru. Most people take an overnight bus (12 hour trip) to head into Peru.

Adios Ecuador !

There is always a sense of nervousness when I cross borders. You hear of scams, people getting robbed, etc. The bus ride was beautiful and it felt like I was heading into the end of the world zone. Traveling further and further away from civilization. I stopped in the town of Macara and did not want to take the 3 AM bus into Peru. This was another one of those "end of the road" feeling types of towns. It was quiet and crickets have invaded this whole town. It had an eerie feel to it and I got plenty of funny looks. I found the closest hotel I could find and it was also the worst I have stayed in.

I don't even know how I managed to sleep that night but when I woke up I headed to the plaza to catch a taxi. Folks were heading to church that morning and I was headed to Peru. I took a taxi to the border, walked up to the window, got my exit stamp, and walked across the bridge into Peru. Got my entry stamp and planned my next move.

Hola Peru !

I only had American dollars. The Sole is the form of currency used in Peru. This was a remote border post. Two guys started hassling me for a taxi ride to the nearest town, about two hours away. I told the one man I only had American dollars and he said OK. So, I hopped into a run-down station wagon with another woman. We stopped in several towns and picked up more people. By the time we arrived to the major city, at one point there were ELEVEN people (including kids) smashed into this station wagon and the trunk. At least two bags of rice were strapped to the top. It was hot and sweaty and uncomfortable. But "when in rome", travel like the locals.

Welcome to Peru !

Best Day Ever

The thing I love about traveling is that no day is ordinary. You just never know what unexpected turn of events can happen to you. The very first day I was in Ecuador, I met some traveler from Denmark and he told me about this eco-retreat place in a small village called Vilcabamba. He handed me the flyer and I used it as a bookmark for my guide book on the rest of my travels.

photo from: http://www.flickr.com/photos/johndrogers/4482784714/

I kept looking at this flyer and read more about the town. I knew I had to go there.  This village is nestled in a valley and is often called "The Valley of Longevity", as many residents here live to be over 100 years old !

Before I even got off the bus, I felt like I was in paradise. A relaxed, easy-going vibe, organic foods,f fresh air, quiet, tranquility, farmer markets, friendly locals, lush mountains filled with rushing clear, rich mineral water. I never wanted to leave. I wish I never did. I could live here.








I knew this was the perfect place to go horseback riding in the nearby Podocarpus National Park.  Nobody else had signed up for the next day and I just paid ten more dollars to have a private guided all day ride up into the mountains. 42 km on those horses, going up the steepest, scariest "trails" I have ever ridden.

my friend: Fernando, the guide

We were riding into the clouds. I saw cacti that grew as trees! Wild, happy cows, burros, pine trees, waterfalls, rain clouds, and made a good friend.  We ran those horses on the cobbled stone streets of the village, waving and saying hello to town folk and I was laughing with joy with tears coming out of my eyes.








 It was one of my most memorable and favorite days of my trip. I can not even put it into words. There are no words to describe this magical day. At the end of my journey in life, all I have left is my memory really. And  golly gee, I hope I don't lose my memory. 

To Teach, To Learn, To Share

Teachers have probably one of the most rewarding and important jobs on the planet.  They are so influential and necessary. What a gift they pass on to others and the ability to change lives is powerful.

My teacher Carmen and her daughter,
I´m trying to explain how to take the photo by holding down the button, ha ha

My Spanish teacher at the school, Carmen, was 30 years old and had one little girl. She also would sell bananas and other fruit at the markets in other towns.  She would have to take the bus for two hours one way each day to come and teach lessons. Now that is dedication and passion !  My favorite moments with Carmen would be when we took our breaks and sip on some delicious organic, local coffee. We would share about our lives and how different they were.

It´s a big world and everything is relative. But it really makes me wonder.  Even in America, where some folks pay $500 - $900 a month just for a roof over their head and $4 for a Cappuccino. You wonder why do we succumb to that. Are some things really necessary? What should we really be spending our money on? Good healthy foods to nourish our bodies and education.  Carmen taught me lessons for about $5 an hour. Yet, I knew that $5 dollars in Ecuador would go a lot further there than in America. I knew she would use that money to provide for her family.  I wish I could grab Carmen and take her for a visit to the USA, I wonder if she would like it ? The more I thought about life in America, I kind of realized how ridiculous it is and no wonder why a lot are stressed, anxious, and depressed. We need to return to a simpler life.

Sarah & the cat Mishipu

Otherwise, life continued in the village of Pucara. Being a small village, everyone quickly recognized me, gave me smiles, and hugs everyday. It was a great feeling to be part of a community.  Everyone looked after each other. I´d spend time with the kids and we literately were throwing cd discs into a rubber tire for an hour or two. Sunday was the big day of the week where folks would head to the market to buy supplies for the week and then play and watch soccer with their families in the park.



The power went out for a few hours and we ended up sitting around the neighbors fire and chatting. I don´t think this family had a stove and they would cook their food over the fire.  My host family did not even own a flashlight and I ended up giving them my little flashlight.  One night, Fernando dipped a huge rag ball in gasoline and set it on fire and carried it around the house for 15 minutes to smoke out the mosquitoes. It was quite a sight ! After my week here, I had to make the decision if I wanted to head East to the beaches of Ecuador or go South. I decided to go South to the mountains again.

Back to School

❝If you talk to a man in a language he understands, that 
goes to his head. If you talk to him in his own language,
 that goes to his heart.❞

‒Nelson Mandela

photo from: www.ecuadorliving.com

the bare bones class room

 It has been on my list of things to do in life for quite some time-study Spanish and practice more.  Over 15 years ago, I took Spanish in High School but never got to use it much since then.  I thought the best way for me to learn was to go in head first.  I have been looking for awhile for an immersion course or a homestay option. I craved something different. Just my luck, I picked up a little flyer in a hostel to study at Intag Spanish School, a non-profit community development program located in Northern Ecuador. I paid both my host family and my teacher directly, which was a great feeling, knowing that they helped me and I helped them too. This link is a good read about another Spanish school to find out how the lives of these single mothers change when they become a part of FairServices, Martha´s Story.

Who knew that one week could open my eyes and my mind so much. I hopped on the bus to head into the Intag Valley, known for its cloud forests, deep valleys, and numerous wild rivers.  A high level of poverty (88%) makes the region amongst the poorest in Ecuador. A survey revealed that 72% of families had average earnings of $100 per month or less.

the little school 

It was raining of course, and the two hour bus ride was mesmerizing. I prayed for every ones safety. I was to get off at the tiny village of Pucara, a rural pueblo of 150 people. I was talking with the young guy next to me, missed my stop, and did not even realize it !  The bus stopped at the nearest biggest yet tiny town and all of a sudden, a young blond American girl rushed onto the bus and asked if I was Crystal. I replied and she said I missed my stop and she would assist me. She asked, ¨´Is that the only bag you have? Good.¨ I was grateful she was there to help because who would know where I would have ended up...deeper into the jungle, huh?

the village, it had two mini stores with just basic goods,
 nothing else except homes, and one school

The young gal said that my host mom was working at the bus office and would get off of work around 1:30 and I could hang around. I hung out at the tiny, bare boned library and sat on my one   medium sized backpack. I felt like I just joined the Peace Corps. Here I am, in a small rural, dirt lined village with a new world, lifestyle, and culture at my fingertips.  

let the wind flow through your hair,
photo from blacksheepinn.com

 My host moms name was Paulita and she had the sweetest smile in the world. Smiles are universal you know ! Later I found out, she was actually one year younger than I.   I walked with her to where her two children went to school. Sarah was seven and Jhurell was six. We sat with some girls, played with Barbies and watched the boys kick soccer balls at each other. Finally, we jumped in the back of the local ´transportation truck´and headed towards their village about 15 minutes away.

Paulita´s husband, Fernando, was away working all week doing construction but was home on the weekend to spend family time. Paulita worked several jobs yet managed to run the household really well ! The family lived in a simple, three bedroom house. No refrigerator but they did have a washing machine that they did use sometimes. Lots of animals, three cats, one dog, five chickens.  They kept things interesting as all the animals always seemed to sneak into the house and we would have to chase them out.  

home away from home for a week

Paulita also made the family and I three meals a day.  Breakfast at 7 was usually a combination of: fresh blended fruit juice, eggs, bread, tortas, and tea made from local plants. Lunch is the biggest meal of the day for South Americans. Lunch around 2 usually consisted of: rice, beans, veggies, more juice or tea, corn, mota,and a few times a piece of chicken. Dinner was later in the evening, around 7, and was a bit smaller in size and we usually had a fresh made veggie soup, avacoados, and popcorn. Paulita was a very healthy cook and I even learned a few nice recipes from her ! I told her that I did not like cooking but I loved to clean, so I usually helped with the dishes and around the house. 

My own bedroom was clean and simple. It was so dark and quiet in the village, I always slept very well. I did have to sleep under a mosquito net because those little critters could always find a way into the house at night. 

the kitchen

the backyard

 Life was simple here. It was awesome to spend time with a family and do my best to learn Spanish. Playing with the kiddos was also a highlight. I even attempted to teach them a few English words. They did not have alot of toys, as only special times of the year do children receive toys here (like Christmas or Easter). We would watch TV together, play cards, or play with the cats and dogs. 

The young girl would talk very fast and we built a cardboard house for the cat and decorated it with markers and such. The young boy and I liked to play with his toy truck and smash them into each other. The three of us would spend an hour or two every day picking seeds out of seed pods in the nearby organic garden, for no other reason than that there was not much else for us to do. They were happy. I was happy. So nice to get away from the garbage of technology and just play freely, use the creativity, and imagination of children to pass the hours away. 

It was really hard to say goodbye and their family left a special little place in my heart. My time spent here made me realize how special and important family really is.  Life is not about the things we own, the jobs that define us, or wasting time.  At the end of the day, we are all different, yet very much the same. We all desire health, happiness, a roof over our heads, good food in our bellies, to live live with joy and love.